Guide 8: Repairing a Leaky Toilet (Home & DIY)

Project Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate
Estimated Time: 30-60 minutes
Feasibility Score: 8/10 (Straightforward plumbing repair)

Project Overview

A running toilet can waste up to 200 gallons of water per day and significantly increase your water bill. Most toilet leaks are caused by a faulty fill valve or flapper, both of which are inexpensive and easy to replace. This is one of the most cost-effective DIY repairs you can make.

Tools Required (Exact Specifications)

| Tool | Specification | Why You Need It | Approx. Cost | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | Adjustable Wrench | 10" chrome-plated steel | Loosening and tightening water supply connections | $12-25 | | Screwdrivers | Phillips and flathead set | Removing and adjusting components | $10-20 | | Pliers | Needle-nose and slip-joint | Manipulating small components and springs | $15-30 | | Bucket or Towels | Standard | Catching water during repairs | $0-5 | | Flashlight | LED, 200+ lumens | Seeing inside the toilet tank clearly | $10-25 |

Materials Required (Exact Specifications)

| Material | Quantity | Specification | Why You Need It | Approx. Cost | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | Toilet Repair Kit | 1 kit | Includes fill valve, flapper, and bolts | Replaces worn components | $15-30 | | Rubber Gasket/Washer | 1 unit | 1.5" diameter, rubber | Seals the fill valve connection | $2-5 | | Teflon Tape | 1 roll | 1/2" wide, 260" length | Seals threaded connections | $3-8 |

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Identify the Problem

Listen to the toilet. A continuous hissing sound indicates a faulty fill valve. A slow drip into the bowl indicates a faulty flapper. Turn off the water supply valve (usually located behind the toilet) and note which component needs replacement.

Step 2: Drain the Tank

Turn off the water supply and flush the toilet to empty the tank. If the tank doesn't empty completely, use a bucket to remove any remaining water.

Step 3: Disconnect the Water Supply Line

Using your adjustable wrench, loosen the nut connecting the water supply line to the fill valve. Gently pull the line away and set it aside.

Step 4: Remove the Fill Valve (If Necessary)

If replacing the fill valve, locate the large nut at the base of the fill valve (inside the tank). Using your adjustable wrench, loosen this nut and remove it. The fill valve should now lift out of the tank.

Step 5: Install the New Fill Valve

Insert the new fill valve into the opening and hand-tighten the base nut. Use your wrench to snug it down, but do not over-tighten. Reconnect the water supply line.

Step 6: Replace the Flapper (If Necessary)

If the flapper is the problem, locate it at the bottom of the tank. It's usually a rubber disk attached to a chain. Unhook the chain and remove the old flapper. Install the new flapper by hooking the chain to the flush handle lever.

Step 7: Adjust the Fill Valve

Most fill valves have an adjustment screw or clip. The water level should be about 1" below the top of the overflow tube. Adjust the fill valve until the water stops at the correct level.

Step 8: Test the Repair

Turn the water supply back on and let the tank fill. Listen for any hissing sounds. Flush the toilet and verify that the tank refills properly and stops at the correct level. The toilet should no longer run.

Feasibility Assessment

This repair is highly feasible for beginners because the components are simple and inexpensive. The most common mistake is over-tightening the fill valve nut, which can crack the tank. Tighten firmly but do not force it.

Shopping Shortcuts

Search for "toilet repair kit" to find pre-packaged options that include everything you need. Most hardware stores stock these kits and can provide guidance if you're unsure which component is faulty.